APC, Sandro, Maje, Maison Kitsune go Preppy – WWD

PARIS — As designers explore a new elegance in ready-to-wear collections, contemporary brands also evolved from streetwear, with a new emphasis on preppy and high-end essentials.

The collections on display were more dressy and more tailored, with Maje and Maison Kitsuné taking inspiration from British style, while APC and Claudie Pierlot looked at classic French codes with a twist. Longchamp’s riding roots yielded a crop of strong outerwear, another focus of the season.

Collegiate codes took center stage, with lettermen coats, tweed and plaid blazers, but retaining a touch of attitude – the puffed collars on trench coats and plaid jackets at APC read a little rebellious bourgeois.

Denim has a more structured fit, is stiffer in 100 percent cotton, thanks in part to the wider shapes and roomier cuts seen in recent seasons, with the added benefit of the unblended fabric being easier to recycle and helping brands meet their sustainability goals.

The loafer was the key accessory of the season, with APC, Claudie Pierlot, Maison Kitsune and Maje all showcasing versions of the footwear classic with a twist from two-tone to studded and sparkly versions. Longchamp offered a hybrid loafer style with a sneaker sole, for a comfortable take on the classic.

Big brands also expanded their lines of handbags, from fabric versions at Claudie Pierlot to the new “Miss M” shoulder bag in the shape of a half moon at Maje. Maison Kitsuné introduced its first bag, the bowling-inspired “Boogie” in five colorways.

On the busy high street where contemporary competes with luxury, brands are looking to bolster their recognition with new iterations of their logos, this season in a polka dot at Claudie Pierlot, with Maje printing her motif logo on knitwear coordinates and accessories of scarves, hats and shoes .

APC

Designer Jean Touitou, who revealed at Paris Fashion Week that he sold a majority stake to L Catterton, pulled from a few tribes to mix it up this season. a collection full of references and easy pieces.

Dark denim miniskirts were paired with classic pinstripe shirts, lighter denim shirts were tucked into pleated wool trousers cinched at the waist for an ’80s silhouette, while elsewhere he added plaid flannels tied below the hip for a touch of 1980s nostalgia. 90.

Slim zip-up jackets and straight-cut trousers were done in dark khaki, while models wore Elvis-style pompadours for a touch of rockabilly, turtlenecks with tonal gray jackets that added elegance to a collection that also featured strong outerwear.

Touitou had references from every decade that could be confusing, but since all models were born in 2006, he introduces these sources of inspiration to a new generation who feel free to draw from their parents’ or grandparents’ closets. It’s all vintage anyway.

Claudia Pierrelot

The chic contemporary label continued to draw from classic French codes for the stylish Parisienne who spends her weekends on the Atlantic coast.

This brought plenty of navy inspirations to cardigans and T-shirts, and a smart denim vareuse sweater; sailor tops were updated in linen, and embellished gold buttons on white wool cardigans held together the sophisticated coastal aesthetic.

The brand also ventured across the Channel for British inspiration this season, in classic check blazers and some key chocolate brown pieces. Trench coats this season were fitted yet fuller, with pleated skirts meant to be paired with wide, flat-fronted trousers for volume and panache.

Velvet blazers glistened with a touch of crystal for evening looks, sheepskin outerwear was updated in cropped and double-breasted slouchy shapes, while a cream cashmere cape should become a luxe fall wardrobe anchor.

Maison Kitsune

Against the grain, the French-Japanese brand, which used to present unisex pieces, offered several men’s and women’s collections this season. The company looked to 1950s England for the boarding school boys and the brashness of the teddy girls and their gender-neutral looks that turned the fashion of that decade upside down.

It’s now designed by an in-house collective that drew on collegiate codes, featuring college robes, polo shirts, collegiate strips, and a new flag badge for new staple performances. Flowers for both sexes were interpreted in different ways, as camouflage denim for men and skirt coordinates and dresses for women. Sporty sweatpants for men were brightened up with blazers.

Traditional checks were scaled up in a red and black print that was carried over to trousers and slim-fit bomber jackets for men, full swing skirts and blazers for women. As if to emphasize this season’s British character, Maison Kitsuné teamed up with Barbour to create a capsule of quilted jackets and other sturdy outerwear, produced in their factories in the UK.

maje

The French contemporary brand has moved from last season’s party girl mode to collegiate codes that are essential for the season.

The checked blazer was central to the collection, which first introduced tweed to trousers and double-breasted jackets, the conservative textiles countered by studded flats and black leather motorcycles that were loosely cut and belted at the waist for a strong shoulder effect . Classic striped shirts over patterned tights and slouchy cardigans with big gold buttons added to the modern vintage effect.

Designer Judith Milgrom looked to those classic British women – Princess Diana and Kate Moss – as inspiration for the effortlessly eclectic Sloane Ranger goes to Hackney mix.

Longchamp

The brand looked to its riding roots as it jockeyed for foothold in a crowded contemporary market, bolstering its apparel offerings while expanding its accessories—still the bulk of its sales. Saddle, bucket and binocular bags were offered in all sizes this season, introducing several new shapes. The shopping bag, a huge success since its appearance in ‘Emily in Paris’, was offered in two sizes.

Blazers were important here too, especially in corduroy for a textured take on the season’s important piece.

Creative director Sophie Delafontaine’s clever take on the jockey stripe, reinterpreted on a textured denim suit, showed that the brand’s ready-to-wear is evolving.

Sandro

Sandro played with contradictions this season, also from preppy codes, interspersed with some added Parisian sensuality in lingerie underpinnings for women. A sequined midriff funnel neckline was tempered by a tweed Spencer jacket and lace-trimmed tops paired with pleated skirts. Nothing got too feminine or overt this season, instead items were grounded with boyfriend-borrowed cargo pants, blazers and ties.

A slinky gold evening dress had a high neckline and full sleeves so it didn’t look too sexy, while black blazers strayed from basic with embellished crystals.

It was another strong showing of men’s outerwear, in heathered Harris tweed, sheepskin hoodies and cozy cardigans. Pants were tailored but loose-fitting, just over thick brogues. The palette for fall ranged from brown to rich chocolate. Coarse knits and scarves tied everything together.