As I raced through the cold and drizzly streets of Copenhagen this week for the autumn/winter 2023 edition of fashion week in the Danish capital, I was reminded why Scandinavian fashion has such an enduring hold on our wardrobes.
Sure, Nordic women, all radiant skin, minimal makeup and untamed beach locks, are very beautiful; but it’s their relaxed, comfort-oriented way of dressing that makes them so effortlessly cool. Whether it’s a flowing silk dress with sneakers, baggy jeans and a sequin top or an oversized manly coat over a mini dress, it all has a charming ease that you certainly won’t find on the streets of Paris .
“I think the most important thing about Scandinavian style is that it’s always wearable,” says Denise Christensen, CEO of Birger Christensen, the Copenhagen-based fashion company that owns Remain and Rotate. “I definitely think the world is watching that… We inspire the wardrobes of women who wear them every day.”
Fellow Danish designer Stine Goya agrees: “Comfort is key. You want to look good for the party, but you have to ride a bike to get there.” She designs colorful pieces that work for both: her tailoring is loose and fluid with elasticated waistbands, while her sequin sets have built-in stretch to move and bend with the body.Five years ago, brands like Stine’s (along with Ganni, Helmstedt, Brogger and Saks Potts) all the ideas we had about Scandinavian minimalism through an abundance of feminine colours, sequins and ruffles.Now Scandinavian fashion has evolved again as a wave of youth oriented grungy new Scandinavian names has sprung up over the past two years.
“Space is being cleared in the Copenhagen fashion scene for a more hardcore Gen Z look,” says Ganni co-founder Ditte Reffstrup. “I love seeing how it’s diversified.” Leading the pack is (di)vision, a label that works entirely with deadstock and pre-existing materials, founded by Wick’s siblings, Simon, 26, and Nanna, 28, in 2018.
Full of cool Copenhagen kids sipping mini bottles of Jaegermister, their AW23 show went big on a Woodstock ’99 aesthetic of baggy jeans, plaid overshirts and ripped tank tops, all hitting the catwalk on the backs of friends, family and partners.
Front row was 30-year-old Swedish influencer Anna Winck, whose nostalgic grunge, vintage and Y2K wardrobe has made her a street style favourite. This week she launched her debut label Cannari Concept, inspired by her teenage wardrobe and made with second-hand and recycled clothing.
For Winck: “Scandi fashion leaves the cuteness and goes into the coolness, the grooviness.” Whatever new form it takes, the world will no doubt be watching.